Travel and Leisure
October 27, 2024
Siargao must be what Bali felt like 50 years ago.
As I sit down to write about Siargao, a place that feels like the last remaining paradise, I grapple with my profession and the assignment at hand. My job is to share the joy of traveling and help people discover new places and experience new cultures, and today, my assignment is to write about my trip to Siargao, a tiny island in the Philippines. Yet, sharing this paradise with the world fills me with unease; I can’t shake the worry that my words might unwittingly contribute to its erosion by motivating tourism and development.
With palm-covered hills, clear waters, and friendly locals, Siargao feels like one of the last wild sanctuaries in an increasingly commercialized world. Called the Philippines's surf capital, Siargao is beloved by surfers who are tired of Bali and Hawaii's crowded line-ups and willing to deal with the island’s developing infrastructure — brownouts are the norm here. Siargao is perhaps what Bali might’ve felt like in the early 1970s, when the island’s waves first started drawing foreigners.
And like Bali 50 years ago, Siargao is on the cusp of change. It is still mostly undeveloped and wild, with winding dirt roads and homes fashioned from tin sheets. But in General Luna, which houses the Cloud 9 surf wave that put Siargao on the map, the aptly named “Tourism Road” is lined with restaurants serving everything from dumplings and sushi to pizza and kebabs.
I’ve traveled all over the world, surfed in Bali and Hawaii, and I know for sure that Siargao has something special. A visit to Siargao is the chance to experience what those surf spots might’ve felt like decades ago — and for all my ambivalence, at the end of the day, I want to share that with you.
As a reminder, when you visit destinations prone to overtourism like this special place, you should attempt to leave a light footprint. Fill up your water bottle at refill stations (rather than buying bottled), say no to take-out containers, and turn off the air-conditioning when you leave for the day. Tourism keeps many locals employed but can also lead to a build-up of garbage, dirty groundwater, and trash-strewn coastlines. The U.S. dollar goes far. Tipping helps make an island that is becoming increasingly more expensive for locals more affordable.
Where to Stay
Bravo Beach Resort Siargao
Bravo is the unofficial Siargao meeting place. The hotel is central, sits right on the beach, and has a great Spanish restaurant. It also has its own skateboarding bowl, with an adjacent snack bar that serves arepas, home-brewed kombucha, and popsicles to bystanders.
While Bravo is not a five-star hotel, your dollar goes far in Siargao: You’ll be treated to clean, contemporary rooms with air-conditioning and semi-open showers. The property has just 22 guest rooms so it doesn’t take long for the staff to start remembering your preferences and welcome you like family.
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Article by Evie Carrick